TRAVEL | Newfoundland
In the before times, before Covid-19 and before Bill died, he and I decided that at the top of our travel list was Newfoundland, specifically Fogo Island and Gros Morne National Park. As sad as I was to not have Bill with me (physically) on this trip, the minute I was able to go, I went. OMG. My 12-days away were mindblowing in their visual, gastronomical, people, and reset properties!
I landed in St. John’s mid-afternoon and made my way to the Sheraton Hotel Newfoundland. I washed off the travel and left on foot in search of The Duke of Duckworth pub as The Republic of Doyle (2010-2014) is one of Cole’s most favourite TV shows and the pub is featured prominently in it. I don’t know that, to that point in my life, I’d ever had fish that fresh. It was delicious. I stayed to get a bit of the atmosphere and to watch the Buffalo Bills (a sad loss to the Steelers) in their season opener. Back at the hotel, I enjoyed an early evening - with some seafood chowder. If you are a fan of fish and seafood, I can highly recommend Newfoundland as a destination.
After breakfast, my journey to Fogo Island began. It is quite a trek to get there as it is remarkably remote: airplane, car, ferry, car. From the hotel in St. John’s to the ferry outside Gander is about a 4-hour drive, the ferry takes a little less than an hour and then from the ferry it’s a strong half-hour to the accommodation. Lucky for me, all of those shuttling me around were filled with all manner of stories and the time went by quickly. (I think if I were to do it again I’d fly into Gander - the scenery is very much like northern Ontario, Canadian Shield views.)
I was fortunate enough to stay at the famous Fogo Island Inn in time for Berry Season - one of the Seven Seasons they have on the island. The first thing I did was open all of my windows to let the power of the North Atlantic ocean seep into every pore. I even have a fabulous recording so I can revisit it any time I want.
Marie, who collected me and brought me over on the ferry, did a wonderful job orienting me. I purposely did very little research beyond knowing where I wanted to stay. I’m trying to open myself up to delight and surprise and this trip held both, in abundance. Every person I met was lovely, chatty, informative, and incredibly proud of their heritage and their involvement with the Inn. After the people, the stand out of the trip was the food. Holy delicious! Fresh and creative, every meal took me on a gastronomic journey. Not even one mediocre dish - how is that possible? That said, I did manage to confirm that I don’t have much time for turnip or kale and I could likely live on fish and seafood. Aesthetically the inn is not to my taste - Scandinavian modern meets Atlantic Canada crafts, but that said, it works. My room was lovely, linen sheets were a novelty I had never experienced, and I was able to exhale.
The purpose of this trip was to write and re-orient myself in my life. It’s been one hell of a 2-year span and I was in dire need of some time away from all of my responsibilities. As much as I love my kids, dogs, home and friends, it was time for me to figure out how I want to feel going forward - how do I want to show up in the world? So yes, I ran away from home.
No writing was accomplished but I did manage to make plenty of notes and discover a number of things completely new to me. Research is a big part of writing, right? And, after reading precious little fiction, I devoured four books, again, let’s call it research, too. I need to read what I want to write, right? I also slept - a lot. In bed by 10PM, up at 8AM and an hour-or-longer nap each afternoon. I feel rested for the first time in a long time.
My week went by in a blink!
I was ready for my ride at 5:30AM Newfoundland time - which is 1.5 hours ahead of Eastern time - to take the ferry back to Gander in order to continue my trip to visit Gros Morne National Park. The details were a bit fuzzy but I had faith that we’d find my guide. Yep, Daine Hewlin, owner of Explore Gros Morne was waiting at the Tim Horton’s parking lot at the appointed time. We hit the road and managed to get to Rocky Harbour in about 4.5 hours (with only one pit stop!). I got settled into the Bayside Cottages for a quick nap and shower. It was a more modest accommodation to be sure, but equally spotless and the owner, Ruby, was a delight. Daine collected me for dinner and we went over the plan for the next couple of days.
Nothing prepared me for the vast expanse that is Gros Morne National Park. I’ve been to the Grand Canyon, Scottish Highlands, Banff, Lake Louise and Jasper National Parks, and this one brought me to tears. I can promise, my photos below, do not do it justice!
The time in Gros Morne was short but impactful. I might have rushed this trip a bit as there was a lot of walking involved - not much for someone younger and fitter, but for someone 6-weeks post-surgery who actually followed the orders to not move much and lift nothing over 5lbs, I was not in my best physical shape and I felt it. Lucky for me, Daine was lovely and accommodating as I tried to keep my complaints about my age and mobility to a minimum! All I know is that there will be a time when I do one of Daine’s 6-day hiking trips - mind you, the salmon fishing is tempting, too!
Normally on my post-trip wrap-up posts, I rate each aspect of my trip. I don’t think that’s applicable in this instance only because Covid-19 has changed a number of things. Suffice it to say this was not a typical holiday! So, I leave you with this:
People: 15/10
Accommodations: 8/10
Food: 10/10
Visual Impact: 15/10
Restorative Properties: 10/10
Expectation: 15/10
Value: 8/10
And, here are a few (25) photos. I tried not to duplicate anything already posted on my Instagram account!
The view of Signal Hill from my hotel room.
The ferry ride to Fogo Island was smooth and beautiful. See the sign - that’s a warning not to drop anchor as it would hit all of the power to area and likely end up in a lot of damage. Amazing the lengths that have to be met to stay connected.
Even though I knew exactly what to expect it was a surprise. Such an interesting and unique structure! Every detail inside and out has been carefully considered and nothing was included without serving a specific purpose, or two.
My room, #22, had views out of three sides and was spectacular. Very much Scandinavian meets Atlantic crafty which is not my aesthetic, but it works.
The view outside my window which was left open for the duration of my stay.
Every day there is something to do. Lots of hiking! Later in the week, with three ladies from Ottawa, I went to Joan’s house and made blueberry jam.
The crab dinner was incredible. Twenty guests sat at a community table and got to know each other. It was a lovely experience.
Marie who initially brought me over on the ferry was also my Community Host for my island orientation. It was a lovely few hours of sightseeing and hiking. Brimstone Head, in the town of Fogo is, according to the Flat Earth Society, one of the Four Corners of the World. This provides the natives plenty of amusement as well as income. You can walk to the top but the weather (the only bad day of the whole trip) precluded that adventure.
Marie joined me for lunch at the Bang Belly Café and I was treated to the most spectacular fish & chips. Truly the best I’ve ever had, ever.
I believe I’ve mentioned that there was not a bad meal, not even a mediocre one, on my trip to the island. I kept taking photos and texting them to my kids who were happy that the food was so good but would have liked to have joined me! At dinner the menu was set, the only choice was whether you were going to have meat/fish or vegetarian as your protein. While I was there no pasta or rice was offered. It was a lovely way to eat and I hope to continue when I’m cooking at home.
We never knew what we’d be served for lunch. The meal is designed to mimic what you’d find in your “Nan’s Kitchen”. Little servings of tasty bits. And crusty bread with infused butter - delicious. Not one meal was the same and nothing ever tasted like a leftover!
Each evening we were treated to the sun setting outside the dining room windows. Always different, always lovely. Every seat in the room has a view of the water. Every single aspect of the Inn was carefully considered and the attention is clear.
My first view of Gros Morne National Park. Truly, photos can’t do it justice. My breath was caught for a while.
A quick visit to Cow Head, a lobster fishing community - pretty much abandoned for the season - still picturesque.
Comforting. Mind you, in the time I was in Newfoundland, as much as I wanted to see one, or ten, there were no moose, caribou or bears. Only one mangy fox sitting on the side of the highway.
The start of my “short” hike. Luckily mostly flat, but it still was more than I expected, a little over 3kms. (Which meant 3kms back!)
I don’t know that I’ve ever been so happy to reach the end of a trail!
The Western Brook Pond boat tour was spectacular. At its highest point the rock is 150m higher than the CN Tower. Again, my photos don’t do it justice, it was jaw-dropping in its enormity and beauty. Yes, worth the walk!
These five brave and capable women were embarking on a 4-day hike of the area and would emerge at Gros Morne (the actual mountain) at the end of their journey. I wish I had gotten contact info so I could follow them! Their first challenge, a 4-hour hike, straight up, with no markings. Eek!
Daine (my guide) and I headed off to the Tablelands and, as it happens, he drove his car into some yellow road paint. This was discovered around the same time as I realized I had forgotten to replace the SD card in my camera! Not a bad capture of Trout River for an iPhone, I suppose.
The Tablelands are a striking natural phenomenon. Arid, barren and dry, almost no vegetation.
Meet Daine. He gave great geology lessons! In fact, as a native of the National Park (he’s from Sally’s Cove, population 17) he was filled with all kinds of information, stories and humour - exactly the qualities you want in a guide.
Time to head back to Rocky Harbour. What an incredible day. The beauty of not having a functioning camera is that I was more observant, present and experienced more as I wasn’t in search of the perfect capture.
And my final goodbye to this magical place. It will be a part of me forever. I think I did a good job for me (and Bill).
A quick 3-hour flight home from Deer Lake (no wonder so many Ontarians are opting for cottages in Gros Morne National Park rather than the crazy costs of Muskoka living!), miraculously found my truck, a not-so-quick 3-hour drive to Southampton from Pearson, a quick pit stop to marvel at the place I call home. Beauty is everywhere and I’m fortunate and grateful to hold so many wonderful places and people in my heart.
I do hope that my story encourages you to do one of two things: visit Newfoundland and/or step outside your comfort zone and challenge yourself to do something you want to do. I was amazed by the number of people who marvelled at my travelling alone. The fact is pretty simple, if I didn’t, I’d spend a lot of time waiting for people to get their timing and finances together to join me. I’m open to company, always - but the waiting and indecision I can do without.
The pandemic has certainly put a crimp in my travel plans, but upcoming (depending, of course, on local health and protocol updates) is Jamaica, Turks & Caicos and possibly Arizona. Of course, none of my travel would be possible without the patience and expertise of Erica Tu of Luxe Travel by Design. I have found using a person trained in travel has saved me time, money and plenty of heartache - I highly recommend!
In the meantime, I will hold the stories and experiences of this trip close.